Sunday, December 12, 2010

Memphis, Michael and the Ducks

We arrived at our RV park which is right on the banks of the Mississippi River, in West Memphis, Arkansas. Memphis, Tennessee is just across the river.

We can sit in the motorhome and watch tug boats push big contingents of barges up and down stream. Today I counted 35 barges being pushed by one tug.

They even do this in the dark of night, and we can hear the hum of the tug’s engine as they go by. I don’t know how they see where they are going in the dark.

Tug boats and barges on the Mississippi River

Don was up early this morning and caught the sun rising over the river on this cold and cloudless day.
Sunrise on Ol' Man River

We hoped it would warm up as we headed into downtown Memphis.
It didn’t.

The first stop was at the Peabody Hotel to see the famous Peabody Duck March.

At this very upscale, luxury hotel, five mallard ducks live on the roof in the “Duck Palace.”

The “Duck Palace” is actually some pretty nice digs for those lucky ducks. There are great views of the city and the Mississippi River.


     
City Views from the Duck Palace
The “Palace" itself is a large enclosure that includes a fancy fountain for the ducks to swim in.
The “Duck Master,” (Yes, that is his title!) came down first and explained to everyone the story of the ducks.

It began in the 1930’s with a bunch of drunken duck hunters playing a trick by putting live ducks in the hotel lobby fountain. When the hotel discovered the ducks drew a crowd, they decided to cash in on it and hired a professional duck trainer who worked there with the ducks for 50 years before retiring.

Now the “Duck Master” handles them and the "Duck March" is a major daily event at the hotel.
The Duck Master

At 11:00 every morning, the Duck Master walks the ducks across the roof top of the hotel, they all get on the elevator and ride down to the lobby where the ducks charge out of the elevator at break-neck speed, across the red carpet and into the beautiful fountain in the middle of the hotel lobby where they happily swim till 5:00 pm.

At that point, they reverse the “March” and go back up the elevator and into the “Duck Palace” to spend the night. This has been going on daily since the 1930’s.
     
Everybody waiting for the elevator doors to open.
Here they come!!


OK, everybody, into the pool!!

"Here, Ducky, Ducky!"

The term, “Duck March” is definitely a misnomer, as they don’t march, they run as fast as they can to get to the fountain. The very large lobby was filled with people with cameras trying to catch a picture of the feathers flying by. 
       
People waiting for the ducks

Don wished he had worn his Oregon Ducks hat for this event. He would have fit right in...sort of.



Being December, there were wonderful Christmas decorations everywhere and a large choir of school children singing next to the Christmas Tree. It was all very festive.

"Santa Claus is coming to town...!"

When leaving the Peabody Hotel, we got our directions a bit confused, so took off to where we thought the famous historical Beale Street was. We walked a few blocks and things were not looking good. It was at that point that “Michael” came along and began talking to us as we walked.



Michael was a Katrina refugee. He was basically homeless, living in missions and picking up whatever small jobs he could. He was friendly and helpful and directed us the right direction to Beale Street. 



Michael informed us that after the hurricane FEMA did not do their job and that Katrina was George Bush’s fault. We didn’t ask him any more questions at that point.



We thanked him for his help and then he asked us to help him as well…I had been waiting for that question…but he had been nice and it was Christmas, so Don handed him a few bucks. "Merry Christmas, Michael."
      
Beale Street

Beale Street was pretty quiet since it was the middle of the day. I think it is one jumpin' place after dark. There are lots of Jazz and Blues clubs in the two-block stretch that is blocked off to pedestrian traffic only.



Then we found the Pig. The sign said it was the “Best BBQ in Memphis.” We had to stop here for lunch. And they were right!



We happily shared a rack of terrific pork ribs. Another couple there raved about one of the other menu specialties, a FRIED BOLOGNA sandwich! This lady told me she had wanted the ribs but was going to have a buffet tonight, so chose the sandwich instead. Oh, yeah, that was the healthy choice...



I’ll just stick with the ribs, thank you.
        
PIG

Our next stop was to be the Mud Island Museum, which turned out to be closed for the season, so we went on to Slave Haven at the Burkle Estate.

Burkle Estate Sign

Don was rather apprehensive when we drove through the rather rough neighborhood and pulled up to a small, white, tumbling down house. Pictures were not allowed inside, but the young lady gave us a very informative tour of the house that was part of the slave underground railroad back in the days before President Lincoln freed the slaves.

Slave Haven House

Slaves who had run away could not just walk up to the front door in broad daylight. She showed us a trap door in the floor of one of the rooms that led to the crawl space and from there into the cellar.

When we went down into the cellar, we could see the small (and I do mean small!) holes in the foundation that they crawled through to get into the cellar.

From there they would find ways to get to safer areas, including Canada and Mexico.
Some of the stories were heart-wrenching. There were a lot of slave markets in downtown Memphis at that time.



Babies were considered an expense and so sold cheap, $25-$50 because they could not work till they were about five years old. Often someone would buy five or 10 babies at a time, take them back for their own wet-nurse to raise till they were old enough to work. Those children never saw their families again.

Tomorrow we are going to Nashville, Tennessee for a couple days. Don was going to try a new career as a Country and Western Singer, but we hear you have to have big hair, play a guitar and maybe even be able to sing. Well, kiss that career goodbye.



I think for now he will just stick to retirement.

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